British Cutter Sherbourne 1763 - 1:64 - Almost scratch

[Dubz]

All the older buildpics can be seen here: https://picasaweb.google.com/11221460152...directlink
 

 
 
Edit: I could restore a bit via Google Cache, I will edit here the next days:
 

After a three year building break due to some private issues and high workload, I decided to start a small kit out-of-box just to build a bit and have fun ...  haha .. not possible, I mean the out-of-box. 
 
Because of that and the long break I simply forgot some of my own rules for building: Measuring and Preparation all the time  Now as it turned out not to be a "simple" build There are some, visible flaws, I have to live with (unfortunatley I am sure u will get what I mean ;-)). 
 
I also forgot lots of the english words for building a wooden build ship, sorry for that, and "help" is always appreciated. Anyway, as the build is allready in progress I will start with a little Photo-Story and some short comments, and will try to update the build regulary:
 
Glueing the main wale made with ebony:
 

 

Building the Gratings:
 

 

 

Building the "don't know the word"
 

 

 

 

Researching the Decklayout based on the original plan:
 

 

The final Layout:
 

 

[Dubz]

History

HMS Sherborne (also HM cutter Sherborne, HMS Sherbourne) was a 10-gun cutter of the Royal Navy. She served in the English Channel for her entire career, operating against smugglers. She was sold in 1784.

Design and construction
Sherborne was built at Woolwich Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright Joseph Harris, to a design by Sir Thomas Slade, and was launched on 3 December 1763, having cost £1,581.8.9d to build and fit.

Service
Sherborne was commissioned under Lieutenant John Cartwright, later to become a prominent parliamentary reformer, and was assigned to support the work of the Board of Customs by operating against smugglers in the English Channel. Cartwright commanded Sherborne from 7 December 1763 to 14 May 1766.[1] His area of responsibility was the South Coast of England, including Dorsetshire and Devon. His brother George, when at loose ends, went with him in Sherborne on a cruise out of Plymouth to chase smugglers.

Lieutenant Christopher Raper succeeded Cartwright in 1766 as Sherborne's commander for the next three years. Between 1769 and 1777 the cutter was commanded successively by Lieutenants Stephen Rains, Thomas Rayment and Thomas Gaborian, all the while remaining based in the Channel. Her final commanders were Lieutenant Arthur Twyman, from September 1777 until May 1778, and then Lieutenant Arthur Hayne until September 1779. She was then laid up.

In 1783 Sherborne participated in William Tracey's unsuccessful attempt to raise HMS Royal George, which had sunk in Spithead in 1782. Although the dockyard rated Sherborne as unfitted for service, Tracey conducted some repairs and she was of some use.

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Sherborne_(1763)



The deck planked (with a major flaw ):
 

 

 

The deck waxed (thats the way I make the nails):
 

 

 

 

 

Did some plank doubeling at the bow to fix a flaw:
 

 

Made the Flue:
 

 

 

Made the rudder, tiller and braces:
 

 

 

 

 

 

Next major thing to do is the 2nd planking, not sure yet if I will made in Kraweel or brick style.
 
Cheers,
 
Dirk

[Dubz]

Hej,
 
finished the planking, and did the first oiling:
 

 

 
First polishing.
 

 
Another oiling:
 

 
Last polishing:
 

 
It's not perfect, there are some minor flaws, but it's ok for me. Next ist to think about the nailing... do I really want to drill round about 800 holes? Hmpf .... 
 

Horseshoe and Fisplate finished. Also 2 of the three Entrysteps .. or whatever they called 
 

 

 

 
Some pictures of what I made the last days. Have fun [img]<br /> <br />
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
Dirk

[Dubz]

Small Update on the Bow. Think it's called leveller, but not sure 
 

 
Started production for the guns.
 

 

 
Here you can see the original carriage and the "new" one. Also the caldercraft one is absolutley wrong for a british cutter like the Sherbourne, I hate the wood. Theres nothing better then pear


 
Next was to drill all the neede holes.
 

 

 
A little "preview", still some things to do Next will be the trucks. I'm not happy with the size ofe the eyelets, they could be smaller, not sure how to do it yet, thinking about starting photoetching to make them. Maybe anybody has an idea, or know where to get very small ones? 
 

 
Some progress. I oiled the carriages, after I cut a little "line" in to them, cause originally they are made of 2 parts.
 

 
I also made a little jig to glue them later in the exact positions.
 

 
I then thought again about my eyelet-problem, and got an idea  The photoetched hooks delivered with the kit have the exact diameter I would like to have, so I cut one hook, and used only the eye. Thats what I want 
 

 

 
I then searched the Jotika-Website but could'nt find them.
 
Will order them and try out, but as the hooks have kinda rounded eyes, the eyeletts above looks really &quot;flat&quot;, I might mail Jotika and ask them to send me 200 hooks 
 
Cheers,
 
Dirk

[Dubz]

Anyway made some very little progress:
 
I am not using the barrels coming with the kit (to be honest I am not using much anyway ...) I bought the brass ones from CC. First thing was to solder the trunnions, unfortunatley was the drilling of the small barrels not really exact so that the angle of the trunnions is kinda inclined.
 

 

 

The next little thing I made is the iron eye plate for the preventer stay:
 

 

 
 
As I wrote earlier I really would like to have nuts or washers for the tie bolts at the carriages. Doing them by myself in a quality I would like was impossible, as these beasts are damn small. I searched alot about how to make small things like this, and the I found this:
 
http://www.verlindenonline.com/store/pro...ts_id=1874
 
Photoetched Nuts & Washers. Made for plastic tanks these small pieces are perfect for my need
 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
Dirk

[Dubz]

Some missing details.

Building the windless:












Building the pump:






Some more impressions:









Cheers,

Dirk

[Dubz]

Right now I need to make a little break from Busty Syren, still no idea how to make the timbers for the headrails.

Also one of the tasks I started 2014 was quit smoking and I honestly can say that sux I mean I feel more healthy but my brain is missing the happydrugfeeling and concentrating is a bit harder atm... hmpf.

Anyway I did some stuff on the Sherbourne, especially some details I developed for the Syren, smaller rings and eyebolts etc.

Finishing the catheads.





Decided to paint some more stuff red



Adding details to the main hatch.



Starting the Swivel guns. The guns are from Chuck. They needed some preparation, e.g the handle. First removing the head.



Drilling holes.



Soldering the handle.





Finished




Small Update about the ball at the end of the tiller.
I tried with silversoldering, e.g. melting the wire to get the ball -> hard to control, just soldering -> nope, couldn't get the ball attached to the tiller, so as a compromise just some woodglue






Cheers,

Dirk

[Dubz]

The kit guns are crap imo, afair I replaced the guns with caldercraft brass ones but the swivel again with Chuck ones.

Ja, thanks a lot. Still hard not to smoke, especially while solution finding I really miss a good smoke

Today I made the mounting pintles for the swivel guns. I'm still not good in silver soldering so this took a while ...





Some mor impressions with full teeth









A bit deconstruction were neccessary to get some space for the entry steps entry (I can't remember what I had in mind when I made them this way )... ok honestly I'm really used in reapinting a caprail over and over again







Next was some love for the rudder. Made the eyebolt arrangement for the rudder pendants and the the rudder coat.



Remade tiller painted red.





Finished the rudder coat and the tiller.











Pinrails done.

Cheers,

Dirk

[Dubz]

Today I made the ladders Should be the last deck fitting ...







Almost finished with the stop cleat ... haha while rereading the alert book for writing this text it says WOODEN(!!) stop cleat ... hmpf ... would have been easier to make them in wood ... arghhhh







Finished both ladders. Let the stop cleats made in brass, like the look



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As promised a small photostory how I make the rudder coat.

Take a small piece of cotton



Draw the rough shape (better bigger than to small )



Use CA glue for the edges of the shape so that I can cut them nicely.



Use Edding to blackend the coat.





Glue the lower part of the coat to the rudder (yepp it's just a stick ).





Fold the coat around the rudder.



Use some rope to fix the lower part of the coat.



Next part is a bit tricky, bring the upper part of the coat in a rough shape. Final adjustment has to be done when the rudder is in position.



Hope that does explain it well enough

=======================================================

My Babies



Cheers,

Dirk

[Dubz]

Okidoki, it's time to think about the rigging I guess.
Yesterday I checked the plans and some of my sources, that will be mainly Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft by Lennarth Petersson, with additional books like the AOTS Alert, Masting an Rigging by James Lees and a (great) german book Rundhölzer, Tauwerk und Segel by Klaus Schrage.

This will, btw, not be a 100% accurate scientific work with every detail researched

First conclusion after checking what caldercraft wants is: Way to less belaying points ... what a surprise

So I fixed this with longer pinrails.





And some knees. I saw these on some models and like the detail even it might be not correct for the Sherbourne.
But this build does not claim to be perfect anyway. Remember it started as a "Ok, let's build this ship fast OOB"










Thanks Kester, I still need to figure out how to get more belaying points at the bow ...

After removing the masking tape Added the traveler for the boom sheet. Don't worry, the brass pins won't stay brass










This is how I solved my missing bow belaying pins problem

Usually I start with making a cardboard template.



Then adjusting the woodmade piece ... btw, when I know I will paint something so that I can use filler I'm not 100% accurate in building a piece.



Finally (one last coat of paint is needed)











Cheers,

Dirk